Testing doneness

Bakers judge a cake's doneness in a few ways. A food-science text lists three signs: the cake pulls away from the sides of the pan, the top springs back when lightly touched, and a cake tester inserted in the center comes out clean. University of Illinois Extension's bar recipe uses the same clean toothpick cue.

One lab recipe bakes a small cake until it springs back when touched lightly in the center.

Once done, standard cakes cool in their pans for 15 to 20 minutes or until warm to the touch, while angel food and chiffon cakes cool completely in their pans, inverted, so air can circulate.

Ovens vary, so these checks matter more than the clock.