Piononos are small upright rolls of thin sponge soaked in syrup, spread with egg-yolk cream and cinnamon, and rolled tight. Each one is crowned with a dome of the same yolk cream, sugared and torched to a glassy caramel cap. Makes 10 pastries in about 3 hr 15 min.
Prep45 min
Cook25 min
Cooling2 hr 5 min
Total
3 hr 15 min
Yield
10 pastries
Ingredients
Adjust yield
pastries
Scales from a half to a double batch; give a bigger batch a little more time.
⅔ cup (150 ml)water, for the syrup
⅔ cup (120 g)granulated sugar, for the syrup
8(144 g)egg yolks
¾ cup (150 g)granulated sugar, for the yolk cream
2 ½ tbsp (20 g)cornstarch, for the yolk cream
7 tbsp (100 ml)water, for the yolk cream
4(200 g)eggs, large, separated
½ cup (90 g)granulated sugar, for the sponge
6 tbsp (50 g)all-purpose flour
3 ½ tbsp (30 g)cornstarch, for the sponge
1 ¼ tsp (3 g)ground cinnamon
2 ½ tbsp (30 g)granulated sugar, for torching, to finish
Make the syrup: simmer the 150 ml water, 120 g granulated sugar and cinnamon stick for 5 minutes until the sugar dissolves and the syrup turns lightly thick. Cool, about 1 hour, then remove the cinnamon stick.
Make the yolk cream: in a saucepan whisk the egg yolks, 150 g granulated sugar and 20 g cornstarch until smooth, then whisk in the 100 ml water. Cook over medium-low heat, whisking constantly, until it thickens, then let it bubble for 1 full minute while whisking, 6 to 8 minutes total (it will be well above 160°F / 71°C). Scrape into a bowl, press plastic wrap on the surface and chill until cold, about 30 minutes.
Heat the oven to 400°F (200°C) and line the baking sheet with parchment paper.
Make the sponge: whisk the egg yolks from the eggs with half of the 90 g granulated sugar until pale and thick, about 3 minutes. In a clean bowl whip the egg whites to soft peaks, then add the remaining sugar gradually and whip to firm, glossy peaks. Fold the yolk mixture into the whites, then sift the all-purpose flour and 30 g cornstarch over and fold gently until no streaks remain.
Spread the batter evenly over the baking sheet, about 1 cm (3/8 inch) thick. Bake until pale golden and springy to the touch, 8 to 10 minutes. Cover loosely with a clean towel and cool 5 minutes, then trim the dry edges.
Brush the warm sponge generously with about two-thirds of the syrup. Spread about half of the cold yolk cream in a very thin layer over the sponge, leaving a 1 cm (3/8 inch) border on one long side, and sprinkle with the ground cinnamon.
Starting from the other long side, roll the sponge up tightly with the help of the parchment paper. Wrap in the paper and chill 30 minutes so the roll sets.
Trim the ends and cut the roll with a sharp serrated knife into 10 pieces about 4 cm (1 1/2 inches) tall. Stand them upright and brush the outsides with the remaining syrup.
Spoon or pipe a dome of the remaining yolk cream on top of each pionono, sprinkle with the 30 g granulated sugar and caramelize with a kitchen torch until amber and glassy, about 20 to 30 seconds each. Serve chilled or cool.
Tips
Roll the sponge while it is still slightly warm and flexible; a fully cold sheet can crack.
Keep the cream layer inside thin; piononos are about the soaked sponge, not a thick filling.
If you have no torch, set the topped piononos under a hot broiler for 1 to 2 minutes, watching closely.
Cook the yolk cream until it bubbles for a full minute (well above 160°F / 71°C) and keep the finished piononos refrigerated.
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How long does it take to make piononos de santa fe (granada sponge rolls)?
Plan on 45 minutes of prep and 25 minutes of cooking, plus 2 hours 5 minutes to chill and rest. The recipe makes 10 pastries.
How should I store piononos de santa fe (granada sponge rolls)?
Refrigerate in a covered container and eat within 2 days; the caramel cap softens after a few hours in the fridge.
Can I make piononos de santa fe (granada sponge rolls) ahead?
Yes. It needs time to chill and set, so it is a good one to make the day before you serve it.
Piononos were created in 1897 by pastry maker Ceferino Isla in Santa Fe, near Granada, as a tribute to Pope Pius IX, and are still the town's signature pastry. Serve it with café con leche.
Variations
Bite-size piononos: cut the roll into 16 pieces about 2.5 cm (1 inch) tall and use a smaller dome of cream on each; torch for 15 seconds.
Cinnamon-sugar cap: mix 1/2 tsp (1 g) ground cinnamon into the 30 g (2 1/2 tbsp) torching sugar.
Brandy syrup: stir 15 ml (1 tbsp) brandy or dark rum into the cooled syrup; the alcohol does not cook off.
Make-ahead: fill and roll the sponge up to 1 day ahead and keep it wrapped in the fridge; cut, top and torch just before serving.
Estimated · per serving
Nutrition
Per serving = 1 of 10 servings this recipe makes.
264Calories / serving
5.9gFat
48.2gCarbs
5.4gProtein
39.2gSugar
Whole recipe (10 servings):
~2640 cal ·
59g fat ·
482g carbs ·
54g protein ·
392g sugar
Estimated values per serving, calculated from standard ingredient data. Not verified Nutrition Facts; actual values vary with brands, measurements, and preparation.
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