Muttamala (Malabar Egg Yolk Threads in Syrup)

Instructions

1. Separate the eggs carefully so no white clings to the egg yolks. Press the egg yolks through a fine sieve into a jug to remove the membranes and chalazae; keep the egg whites in a separate bowl.
2. In a wide, shallow pan, bring the sugar, water and green cardamom pods to a boil, stirring until the sugar dissolves. Boil until the syrup reaches the one-string stage, 220°F (105°C), about 8 minutes; a drop pressed between finger and thumb should pull into one thread. Lift out the cardamom pods.
3. Keep the syrup at a gentle, steady boil over medium heat. Pour some of the strained egg yolks into a muttamala cone or a small cup pierced with three or four fine holes, hold it 4 inches (10 cm) above the pan, and move it in quick circles so thin threads fall into the syrup and form a loose net.
4. Cook each net until the threads are set and glossy, about 1 minute, then lift it out with a slotted spoon or chopsticks onto a plate. Sprinkle a spoonful of the cold water over the syrup after each batch so it stays thin; repeat until all the egg yolks are used, about 15 minutes in all.
5. Let the muttamala cool for 10 minutes, then gently tease the threads apart with a fork so they look like loose garlands.
6. Measure out 150 ml of the remaining syrup and let it cool until just warm, about 15 minutes. Set up a steamer with simmering water and grease the round plate or pan with the ghee.
7. Whisk the egg whites lightly until frothy, then whisk in the 150 ml warm syrup and the whole milk just until smooth; do not beat to a foam. Strain the mixture into the greased plate.
8. Cover the plate loosely with foil and steam over medium heat until the pinjanathappam is set, springy and a knife inserted in the center comes out clean, 20 to 25 minutes (160°F / 71°C in the center).
9. Cool the pinjanathappam for 30 minutes, cut it into 8 squares or diamonds, and pile the muttamala threads on top of each piece to serve.