Balushahi (Flaky Glazed Indian Doughnuts)

Instructions

1. Sift the all-purpose flour and baking soda into a bowl. Add the softened ghee and rub it in with your fingertips until the mixture looks like coarse crumbs and holds together when pressed, about 3 minutes.
2. Add the plain whole-milk yogurt and bring the dough together by pressing and folding, not kneading, adding cold water 1 tbsp at a time only if it stays crumbly. It should be soft and slightly rough. Cover and rest for 30 minutes.
3. Divide the dough into 12 portions. Roll each gently into a ball, flatten to about 2 inches (5 cm) across and press a dent in the center with your thumb. Keep them covered.
4. Make the syrup: stir the sugar and water in a saucepan over medium heat until dissolved, then boil until it reaches one-string stage, 220 to 222°F (105°C) on a thermometer, 6 to 8 minutes; a cooled drop pulled between finger and thumb forms one thread. Stir in the ground cardamom and keep warm.
5. Heat the ghee or neutral oil in a deep kadai or heavy pot to 275°F (135°C). Slide in 4 pieces; they will sink and slowly rise. Keep the temperature between 275 and 300°F (135 and 150°C), turning once they float, and fry until deep golden and crisp all over, 12 to 15 minutes per batch. Repeat with the rest, about 45 minutes in total.
6. Drain the balushahi on a rack and let them cool to room temperature, about 20 minutes.
7. Dip the cooled balushahi into the warm syrup a few at a time, turning to coat, and soak for 3 to 5 minutes. Lift onto a rack, sprinkle with the pistachios and let the glaze set into a thin white coating, about 1 hour.